We have stopped at Laon on our way back to Calais, largely because it is on the right road and has a handy Ibis. However we have just returned from a brief exploration of its medieval city and cathedral, both of which are fantastic. Forget about Reims (except for the Chagall and Simon glass); Laon cathedral is bigger, brighter (with whiter stone), has a better location (views to die for on both sides) and has statues of animals protruding from its towers. It was apparently an important stop for pilgrims going from Canterbury to Rome, and also for those going from the low countries to Santiago de Compostela. What a serendipitous find, and yet again I knew nothing about it. To cap it all, the organ was playing as we walked round the cathedral.
Home tomorrow. We decided that since we are only 2 hours from Calais it does not make sense to kill most of the day in Boulogne or Calais, so we changed our Eurotunnel to midday on13th. It will be a long drive home, but that is inevitable. I shall miss the empty roads as we drive up the M20 and round the M25!